He'enalu, a Hawaiian term adopted by ancient poets to describe their spectacular sport of surfing, is a word rich nuance. Like many subtleties expressed by this highly-evolved civilization, the world for this popular form of recreation is rich in what Hawaiians call kaona, or hidden meaning. The first half, "he'e," can mean for instance, "to change from a solid to a liquid form, or to run as a liquid"; the second part, "nalu" can refer to the surfing motion of a wave, or the foaming of a wave, hence he'enalu, wave-sliding. 

Hawaiians attached great mystique to the ocean and her moods. Not unlike the Eskimo, who utilizes several hundred words to relate forms and concepts of ice and snow, the Hawaiian people likewise assigned numerous persona and poetic metaphors to the ever changing sea, the kai. 
 

She can be calm and quiet (kai malie), 
or she can fume rough and raging (kai pupule). 
More sensuous references identify streaked, whispering, and silent conditions.

Sometimes she swoons. Puna, "the spring" she of "pouty lips," was a coastal region known for her "sea rustling over pebbles". (Puna i ke kai nehe ka 'ili 'ili.)

When she was smooth you could punalua-glide effortlessly, with a few paddles into a wave. Even mellower is Kona, "the leeward wind," known for her "seas with cloud billows that forecast peace" .(kona kai 'opua i kala i ka la'i.) 

All these natural forms had a significant effect on he'enalu, as any modern day surfer will readily testify. Hawaiians even had an appropriate word, hopupu (ho-poo-poo), that referred to a state of being stoked, or emotionally excited about something. In his important manuscript Traditions of Hawaii, the 19th Century Hawaiian scholar Kepelino Keauokalani (kay-ow-o-ka-la-ni), recalled that "during November, which in the Hawaiian calendar is called 'ikuwa,' in honor of 'deafening' wind, storms and waves that occur during that month, early Hawaiians would become particularly hopupu." 

Ikuwa, wrote Kepelino, often times entranced these people, and they would cast their normal responsibilities aside. 

QUOTE (Kepelino): 

It is a month of rough seas and high surf that lure men to the sea coast. For expert surfers going upland to farm, if part way up perhaps they look back and see the rollers combing the beach, will leave their work, pluck ripe banana leaves, ti leaves and ginger, strip them, fasten them about their necks and stand facing the sea and holding sugar-cane in their hand, then, hurrying away home, they will pick up the board and go. All thought of work is at the end, only that of sport is left. The wife may go hungry, the children, the whole family, but the head of the house does not care. He is all for sport, that is his food. All day there is nothing but surfing. Many go out surfing as early as four in the morning-men, women, children. There is fine sport; then from innocent pleasure they turn to evil pleasures; so it goes! 

Hopupu-stoked indeed. (this custom remains popular today-ask any employer or contractor that has surfers for employees....)

Of the Hawaiians who surfed, it was the ali'i or chiefly class, who claimed the highest reputation for dedicated proficiency with board and waves. They had their own prayers, chanters, board shapers, wood and beaches where they alone could surf with others of similar rank. No one dared to drop in on their wave, not a chance, because that meant death, or at least a near death experience. Because surfing was strongly endorsed by the ali'i as well as the maka ai nana (ma-ka-eye-naa-naa) (common people), it achieved a special status and respectability in ancient Hawaii. Renowned surfers were celebrated in song and dance and often enjoyed special privileges in royal circles. Their status as leaders within the class of chiefs depended, in part, on their strength and stamina. The sport of surfing served as arduous training as well as a challenging pastime, to keep them fit for the physical requirements of their chiefly position. 

In his Polynesian Researches, the Christian missionary William Ellis (1794-1872) recalls that Kaumualii, the great mo'i (king) from the island of Kauai, was renowned as an accomplished surfer. Ellis also recalls seeing the elderly Big Island chiefs Karaimoku (Ka-ra-ee-moku) and Kakioena (Ka-kee-o-en-na). 

"both between fifty and sixty years of age, and large corpulent men, balancing themselves on their long and narrow boards, or splashing about in the foam, with as much satisfaction as youths of sixteen." 

Which ever board they choose, olo, kiko'o (longboard) or alaia (short), the chiefs took great pride in the skill, grace, speed, and courage with which they rode the Pacific's swells.

Hawaiian surfers often exhibited their finest wave-riding style in fierce competition. This was, in fact, a major part of the game to early enthusiasts, and the betting that accompanied every contest was no doubt an important incentive for the practice of the sport. When the waves were at its biggest, and all bets were in personal property, such stake, not to mention the tremendous personal pride, ego and even romance, were all on the line; winner takes all. 

However humble one's surfboard, it was treated with respect. Even before the board was shaped, according to the 1896 Thrum's, a proper "surfbuilding ritual" was observed. It began with the tree. Only three types of tree were used to make the ancient surfboard; the wiliwili, the ulu (or breadfruit), and the koa. Once a tree had been selected a board-builder with a stone axe, dug a hole among the roots, and placed the fish therein with a prayer as an offering to the gods in return for the tree he was about to shape into a board. The construction and shaping of the surfboard that followed this ritual was an exacting task that required the experienced craftsmanship of professional native "shapers."

The trunk was first chipped away with an axe and roughly shaped to the desired dimensions. It was then pulled down to the beach and placed in a halau (canoe house) for finishing work. Granulated coral called pohaku puna (po-haa-ku-pu-na), and a rough kind of stone called oahi (o-ah-hi) were used for smoothing the rough surfaces on the board getting rid of the adze marks, much as canoe hulls were polished. As a finishing stain, the root of the Ti plant called mole ki, or the pounded bark of the kukui, called hili was used to give the board a dark, glistening lustre. Stains were also obtained from the soot of burned kukui nuts, charcoal from burnt pandanus leaves, or the juices from young banana buds. To complete the process, a dressing of Kukui nut oil was applied when the stain was dry, and the black, glossy board was ready for surfing.

DUKE KAHANAMOKU

Hawaii's Duke Kahanamoku is singularly credited with popularizing surfing world-wide during the 1920s. Springboarding off his 1912 and 1920 Olympic swimming fame, this record-breaking champion brought his 10' redwood plank with him in his many travels and drew crowds to his performances.

Duke Paoa Kahanamoku lived from 1890-1968. He was born and raised in Waikiki and was a full-blooded Hawaiian, representing the culture to millions of people. He was an Olympic champion winning three gold, two silver, and one bronze metal in four Olympics between 1912 and 1922. He is known as the Father of International Surfing having introduced the sport to the Eastern seaboard. He is recognized as the "Hawaiian Ambassador of Aloha". During his lifetime, the Duke was a movie actor, political figure, and true hero. His statue is located on Waikiki Beach where many honor him by placing leis on his statue.

Duke Kahanamoku was Hawai'i's first Olympic medalist. He participated in four Olympic Games: 1912 in Stockholm, Sweden (one gold and one silver medal); 1920 in Antwerp, Belgium (two gold medals); 1924 in Paris (one silver medal). Duke won a total of five Olympic medals! He is a member of the Olympic Hall of Fame. At age 42, he retired from competitive swimming.

Duke also won the 100-meter free-style Amateur Athletic Union Outdoor Championships in 1916, 1917 and 1920. A Hawaiian representing the United States, Duke preceded Johnny Weissmuller as "The World's Fastest Swimmer." Duke replaced the outmoded "scissors kick" with his novel "flutter kick."

In Paris at the 1924 Olympics, three of the Kahanamoku brothers qualified for the U.S. Olympic Team - Duke, Sam and David. Duke won a silver medal in the 100-meter free-style swim, and Sam won a bronze medal in the same division.

Duke was involved with other sports, as well. In 1908, Duke and his friends organized one of the first amateur surfing clubs, Hui Nalu (Club of the Waves). They discussed the condition of the surf and formulated some of the rules in use today. As a famous swimmer, Duke traveled abroad to teach water-safety methods for the Red Cross. Wherever he traveled, Duke introduced his first love - surfing

Duke also pioneered tandem surfing (one surfer sitting on the shoulders of another) in 1919. He was the first to wind-surf (to use a sail attached to a surfboard) and the first to wake-surf (on the wake behind a motorboat).

In 1966, Duke Kahanamoku was the first inductee into the Surfing Hall of Fame.